By: Becky Garrison
During a damp trip to Ireland, the late Steve McCarthy, founder of Oregon-based Clear Creek Distillery, had the opportunity to taste many a single malt to avoid the rain. Upon his return to Oregon, he had the distinction of being the first distiller to bring an American single malt to market. His first single malt was distilled in 1994 and released in 1998. Made using 100% peated barley from Scotland and aged in 100% garryana oak barrels (a tree particular to the Pacific Northwest), McCarthy’s single malts embodied both Scottish and Pacific Northwest whiskey traditions.
After Hood River Distillers acquired Clear Creek Distillery, McCarthy’s 3-year-old Oregon Single Malt continues to remain their flagship whiskey. Other McCarthy single malts have been released that celebrate the bounty of this region, including a 6-year single malt finished in sherry casks.
Caitlin Bartlemay, Master Distiller for Clear Creek Distillery and Hood River Distillers, Inc., observes, “Since the release of McCarthy’s American Single Malt, there have been hundreds of distillers across the country with the same idea; to dig into their region and share the culture through their craft.” For example, the October/November 2019 issue of Beverage Master highlighted the rise of Pacific Northwest American Single Malt whiskies.
In 2010, Westland Distillery in Seattle was founded as the second distillery in the United States dedicated solely to producing American single malt, behind Stranahan’s in Denver, founded in 2004. During his tenure as Marketing Director for Westland Distillery, Steve Hawley recognized early on the difficulty to succeed with American single malt whiskeys without having a formal category to work within. Together with Westland co-founder Matt Hofmann, they decided to establish the American Single Malt category by bringing together varied producers to draft a formal definition and petition the TTB to add it into their regulations.
At the 2016 American Crafts Spirits Association annual convention in snowy Chicago, Hawley and Hofmann proposed a meetup of other American single malt distillers. From this meeting, the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission (ASMWC) was founded as the face of this movement, with the goal of establishing a standard of identity for “American Single Malt Whiskey.” In addition to Westland, the other founding members of the ASMWC included: Balcones Distilling (Waco, TX), Copperworks Distilling (Seattle, WA), Few Spirits (Evanston, IL), Headframe Spirits (Butte, MT), Santa Fe Spirits (Santa Fe, NM), Triple Eight Distillery (Nantucket, MA), Virginia Distillery Co. (Lovington, VA), and Westward Distillery (Portland, OR).
As these conversations ensued, the group aligned together on various ways to also promote the category to the trade and end consumers. Hawley assumed the role of President of the ASMWC with currently over 100 distilleries listed as members on the ASMWC website.
The ASMWC took on the task of not only drafting the proposed definition but petitioning the TTB for it and advocating for the details of it for years. They hosted meetings and calls with TTB to help give them context for why designation was important —how it benefits producers and consumers—and they have been the central body for organizing the support and industry consensus required by TTB to take action. They also played the critical role of educating not only the trade and consumers but also, importantly, the TTB itself on the finer point of the rulemaking and how certain stipulations needed to be addressed based on factors such as production realities, competitive forces, and consumer clarity.
The TTB Approval of the American Single Malt Category
On December 18, 2024, the TTB added a new type of whiskey for the first time in 52 years: American Single Malt Whiskey by including the new Standard of Identity to Part 5 of the Code of Federal Regulations with an effective date of January 19, 2025. This definition clearly defines the category and protects its producers and their products by stipulating that American Single Malt whiskeys adhere to the following production standards:
• Mashed, distilled, and aged in the United States
• Distilled entirely at one U.S. distillery
• Distilled to a proof of 160 or less
• Distilled from a fermented mash of 100% malted barley
• Stored in oak barrels (used, uncharred new, or charred new) with a maximum capacity of 700L
• Bottled at not less than 80 proof
In the April 23, 2023, edition of the New York Times, whiskey author Clay Risen pointed out how this American definition is looser than Scotland’s famously rigid rules. “Like Scotch, American Single Malt would have to be made at one distillery—hence ‘single’—using 100 percent malted barley. But while the Scottish version must be distilled on a pot still and aged for at least three years, neither requirement would exist in the United States. Also, tradition (though not law) dictates that Single Malt Scotch be aged in used casks, usually Bourbon barrels, but no such expectation exists for its American counterpart.
These less-rigid requirements will allow distillers latitude in terms of their distilling practices. While most distillers will use a pot still for distilling their single malts, there are others who choose a column or hybrid still. Also, the looser barrel requirements allow for considerable flexibility in cask finishes with distillers having the ability to age their spirits in new oak casks, as well as used casks that once held beer, wine, sherry, and other spirits.
The Significance of the TTB Designation
Being from Seattle, Tyler Pederson, Master Distiller at Westland Distillery, uses rain as a metaphor to describe the impact of the TTB’s decision:
An idea from a single producer can condense out of thin air and fall to earth as a single drop of rain. Its impact upon the ground on which it falls is very real, but also very localized as it percolates through the soil. As others coalesce around similar ideas and the raindrops begin to fall, they can saturate the ground and create a puddle. However, it isn’t really until the raindrops fall upon a defined topography that they begin to have recognizable features as a common whole.
What is first a puddle can quickly become a pond, then a stream which feeds a lake, and eventually a river flows to an ocean. The definition from the TTB provides us with the necessary landscape in which we can take shape and have a meaningful impact in the world of whiskey. Distillers now have solid ground to where they can innovate and pour their resources into, leading to a rich environment where whiskey lovers can journey and explore the various features. No doubt, the coming torrent of innovative and thoughtful new products will have whiskey lovers singing in the rain.
When asked how this formal designation informs how Westward Whiskey produces and markets its whiskeys, Westward’s CEO Tom Mooney replies: “All of us at Westward Whiskey are thrilled that TTB has officially recognized American Single Malt as a unique and distinctive whiskey category. Crafting world-class American Single Malt demands exceptional time, investment, and expertise. This new standard of identity will protect the integrity of the category and empower consumers to explore the exciting future of American whiskey.”
According to Bartlemay, while their production and sales approach for McCarthy’s will not change as their production falls within the new rules for this category, this new designation will be incredibly important when it comes to speaking about McCarthy’s in the market. “It adds an extra layer of distinction when speaking to customers that are new to the category and elevates us amongst our peers on the global market,” she opines.
When Talking Cedar Brewery and Distillery (Rochester, WA), the first distillery in the US built on tribal lands, opened in 2020, they planned to embrace American Single Malt as their flagship whiskey. According to Ryan Myhre, Head Distiller and Brewer, bringing on Matt Hofmann to supervise their whiskey program only solidified and reiterated that vision. “Matt is a key player in the space and brings years of experience developing and producing world-class American Single Malts.”
Myhre adds that this vision is only furthered by the strong barley research programs and initiatives in the state of Washington, of which Hoffman has intimate knowledge and connections. As he reflects, “While we plan to explore a wide range of barrel-matured whiskey products, the whiskey zeitgeist in Washington will certainly be American Single Malt for the foreseeable future and beyond. Moving forward, Myhre predicts their biggest challenge will be educating and growing a consumer base that is certainly more familiar with bourbon and rye-based whiskies.
The Future of the ASMWC
As Hawley notes, the TTB approval is just the end of the beginning. “We now have an official category to rally behind but the work of educating and promoting continues,” he states. The ASMWC will continue to be highly active in developing programs that support their members as they look to expand their businesses and the category more broadly. Also, they will be active in finding ways to protect the integrity of the category at home and abroad. And we will continue being a voice in broader whiskey and spirits-focused issues such as agriculture, tax reform, transparency in spirits, tariffs, and more.
More information about the ASMWC can be found on their website, https://www.americansinglemaltwhiskey.orghttps://www.americansinglemaltwhiskey.org