By: Erik Lars Myers
The beer pours a rich amber color, crystal clear, with a stark white fluffy head. Warm caramel-sweet malt aromas greet your nose from the glass, counterpointing the earthy hedgerow bouquet of East Kent Goldings hops. It is Reset ESB, a drinkable, classic, English-style ESB. It is also the world’s first Regenfied™ Certified Beer.
The vast majority of the malt in this beer brewed at Fullsteam Brewery in Durham, NC is Regenfied™ Southern Select, a 2-row base malt created Riverband Malt House in Asheville, NC, the first – and currently only – malt house in the world to malt Regenified™ Certified barley. This particular batch of barley is Avalon, a malting barley created at Virginia Tech’s Small Grain Breeding Program specifically for farms in the South. It was grown at Harbor View Farms, a Tier 3 Regenified™ Certified farm in Rock Hall, MD. That traceable pathway is one of the main considerations toward Fullsteam’s use of the Regenified™ seal.
Becoming Regenified™
Regenerative farming is a philosophy that covers a wide range of farming practices. At its base, regenerative agriculture is a method of farming that focuses on practices that are meant to create and maintain healthy ecosystems and preserve sustainable farmland for future generations. It prioritizes soil health, reduces reliance on synthetic herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers, and nurtures the land as well as the people who use it.
Over time, farms that use regenerative practices have shown a long-term increase in yield benefits in their farmland. These farms reduce their carbon footprint, conserve water, and grow healthier food. They also safeguard the long-term viability of their farmland in the form of improved biodiversity, reduced erosion, and a reduction in local water pollution. This is achieved through careful cover-cropping, rotational grazing of livestock, no-till farming, and a wide variety of other practices.
But it isn’t easy. The short-term switch from conventional farming to regenerative farming can mean investment in different tools, practices, and labor. It can also mean a reduced yield while the switch is being made, a daunting proposition in an industry with already razor-thin margins.
That is one of the reasons that the Regenified™ certification works a little differently than other certification programs. Rather than simply working to meet a target – the “if you meet these documented conditions then you qualify as Certified” method – Regenified™ exists in progressive tiers in a way that helps farmers build toward a regenerative farming future, setting goals over years to work in new processes, increasing their regenerative practices while building a better and stronger future for their farmland. In turn, the Regenified™ Seal helps manufacturers and end consumers identify the products made with these farming practices.
A 2024 consumer product report by Regenfied™ shows an ever-increasing consumer awareness of “values-based shoppers.” Their report shows an “Emerging Regenerative Market” whose consumers are willing to pay more for regeneratively farmed products and seek them out when they can, noting that they are “especially interested in supporting regenerative agriculture across core product categories such as fruits and vegetables (83%), eggs (60%), dairy (56%), meat (52%), and grains (48%).”
For companies like Riverbend Malt House and Fullsteam Brewery, it means putting their money where their mouth is.
Regenified™ Manufacturing
“Regenified™ malt is crucial to our triple bottom line approach,” says Brent Manning, one of Riverbend Malt House’s founders and Chief Strategy Officer. “We’ve always prioritized people, planet, and profits. When we started over a decade ago, we really wanted to focus on organically or sustainably farmed barley. At the time, mother nature had other plans for us. After an early difficult growing season we had to choose between conventionally farmed grain and keeping the business open, but now we have the opportunity to refocus on a mission that, at its core, is vital to who we are.”
For Fullsteam Brewery, it was a no-brainer. “It really fits into our core values and mission statement,” notes Jon Simpson, Fullsteam Brewery’s Director of Brewery Operations and Innovation. “Supporting Southern agriculture and what we think of as ‘the Southern beer economy’ through our purchases has been at the heart of Fullsteam’s mission since its beginning. Investing in a specifically southern grain created by one of our local partners that supports the future of farming in the South is a perfect fit.”
Over the past 15 years, Fullsteam has acted on its mission to the tune of approximately $1 million of locally sourced ingredients. Riverbend is one of their primary local partners, and so the opportunity to create a series of beers centered around this malt was serendipity.
For both of them, fitting Regenified™ certification into their process isn’t very much of a disruption and in many cases flows directly with how their operations are designed, which is primarily based around traceability and lot tracking. Traceability, something that larger breweries or maltsters may have to create specific processes for, is often just business as usual for small- or mid-sized breweries.
“We still receive all of our grain in super sacks,” Manning says, referring to the 2000 lb totes that bulk grain is shipped in. He notes that lot tracking to a farm, or even a field level, might be something that larger maltsters might have an initial issue with, but that it’s part of Riverbend’s normal operations. Since the outset, part of their process has been tracking individual strains of barley from different farms and regions because those different strains and regions have significant flavor profile differences. They pass along that information to their brewery and distillery partners to help govern ingredients choices but also as a means for differentiation.
Similarly, at Fullsteam, tracking the use of local ingredients in each beer has been a mission for so long that for Simpson, keeping this particular supply chain separate is just a normal day-to-day operation. “The biggest change has been making a more detailed note in our brewing logs noting the exact lot number and source of the grain.” Of course, making a well-balanced beer often means using more than one type of malt, but for the Reset line, 100% of the base malt for the beer is Regenified™ making up 80%+ of the grist. The rest of the malt is sourced locally from one of North Carolina’s three malt houses.
Regenified™ Value
For both Fullsteam and Riverbend, the decision to use Regenified™ malt is one of prioritizing their own values and recognizing that some purchasing decisions are not driven solely by price but by the greater impact it might have in the world.
“They’re small steps,” Simpson says, “But they add up. You take all the small steps you can and know that at the end they’re having a larger impact together.”
Manning notes that for larger businesses – he specifically mentions large distilleries – locally grown, regeneratively farmed grains are way to significantly impact their supply chain-based carbon emissions. But the same is true for every size of food or beverage manufacturer. Whether it bears out to more sales in the market or not is still up in the air, but for these producers it’s all part of their larger strategy anyway.
“Does it get traction?” Simpson mused, “Hard to say. But it’s definitely attractive to certain customers that are important to us. Retail partners like Whole Foods, among others, are more apt to focus on environmentally conscious manufacturing and ingredients. The Regenified™ Seal makes it easier for customers to recognize that value on the shelf. And that’s worth it as far as we’re concerned.”
Fullsteam Brewery’s Reset ESB: https://www.fullsteam.ag/beer/reset-esb
Riverbend Malt House’s Regenified™ Southern Select: https://riverbendmalt.com/malt/regenified-southern-select/
Regenified™ 2024 Consumer Report: https://regenified.com/2024consumerreport/
About the Author
Erik Lars Myers is an award-winning professional brewer and lover of beer. He has written two travel guides about beer and written and edited multiple books about homebrewing.
