Page 44 - Beverage Master_OctNov 2021
P. 44

International News

                 In terms of casks, Suntory and Nikka have some-    sions in 2016,” confirms Tomoyoshi confirms. “This
               what similar approaches. “We both import and         was due to many factors, such as the Nikka 80th
               make our casks,” informs Tomoyoshi. “We have a       anniversary in 2014 along with strong - yet organ-
               cooperage in each distillery maintaining casks of    ic - growth in foreign markets. Above all, the most
               different sizes and types of wood. We also source    impactful factor was the domestic Nikka fever
               various types of casks from around the world,        caused by the NHK TV series Massan. This was
               including ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. All        unpredictable and sudden.”
               refurbishing and re-charring of the casks are done
               in-house in our cooperages.”                           Massan was an Asadora - a “morning drama” -
                                                                    that ran from September 29th, 2014, until March
                 Suntory uses a range, from ex-bourbon to           28th, 2015. Based on the lives of Masataka
               American white oak and Spanish oloroso sherry        Taketsuruand and his Scottish wife Jessie Roberta
               casks. The company’s in-house cooperage also fash-   “Rita” Cowan, it detailed the creation of Nikka
               ions barrels from Japanese Mizunara oak. “It is a    Whisky…and landed a huge audience not only for
               very tight-grained oak that only grows in the North   the series, but for Nikka’s whiskies as well.
               Island,” Dunn explains, noting that it matures very
               slowly and imparts notes of oriental incense, spice
               and coconut to the finished whisky.

                 When it comes to whisky, distillers know that the
               shape and size are crucial in forming the character
               of the finished product. The copper pot stills used
               by Nikka Whisky were crafted in Japan and are of
               varying sizes. “All stills are slightly different from
               each other, which enable us to produce a wider
               variety of styles,” informs Tomoyoshi. “In gener-
               al, the stills at Yoichi Distillery are smaller, with a
               straight neck and descending line arm. The stills at
               Miyagikyo are larger, with a bulge neck and ascend-
               ing line arm.”                                         Though they may currently be a little scarce in
                                                                    some international markets, Japanese whiskies are
                 Suntory operates two sets of eight distinctly      worth pursuing. They offer the best qualities of
               shaped stills. As any distiller will attest, the size and  their Scottish counterparts — including complexi-
               shape of a still significantly impacts the spirit it pro-  ty, harmony and great depth of character — along
               duces, and the varying sizes employed by Nikka and  with certain exotic aspects that distinguish them as
               Suntory no doubt play a role in crafting the unique   unique, different, and worthy of the accolades they
               character of the individual whiskies.                have garnered both in the Far East and around the
                                                                    globe.
                 While Japan’s whiskies have experienced a spike
               in popularity, the industry itself, like those in other
               countries, has weathered ups and downs. The
               whisky boom of the 1970s and early 1980s gave
               way to a slump in domestic whisky sales by the late
               ’80s, resulting in the closure of several distilleries.
               However, the international acclaim Japanese whis-
               kies have since garnered has led to a resurgence
               in interest. A lot of interest, in fact. In the case of
               Nikka, a few factors combined to create the perfect
               storm surge of popularity. A surge so strong that
               it resulted in the discontinuation of age-statement
               whiskies.

                 “We delisted most of our age-statement expres-

              42    October - November  2021     BEVERAGE MASTER





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