Page 36 - Beverage Master December January 2020
P. 36

Craft Beverage

                 Larkin added, “Many people think the biggest       into your marketing and branding. Apples are
               hurdle is getting the liquor license, but it goes way   what this industry is all about. We can celebrate a
               beyond that. There are zoning and building codes,    diverse range of products and styles, but when con-
               county and state health requirements, general busi-  sumers catch on to the variation an apple variety
               ness licensing, taxes etc….To be in any business,    (and season) can provide, it will be good for cider
               you have to be determined and not let anything       makers and orchardists alike.”
               get in your way. You need to be a jack of all trades.
               There’s a solution to almost any problem—you just                Expanding the Industry
               have to keep on it. You’ll get through it.”
                                                                      All of our experts are excited to contribute to
                 Leadbetter also pointed to the need for fluidity   the reawakening of this pioneer beverage. Here
               in your business approach. “We still have our orig-  are some final thoughts they believe about cider’s
               inal lineup of year-round flagships, but we added    potential.
               many seasonals, one-offs, barrel-aged and small
               batches to the mix every year—much more than I         Cellar-Tek’s Glockner: “By far the most exciting
               thought we would,” she said. “And we never envi-     trend is the growing global acceptance of local-
               sioned having a second Meriwether retail location    ly-made craft beverages—be it cider, wine, beer or
               when we started. Truthfully, at the time, we were    spirits—by the sectors of the general public that
               barely two years old and not ready to expand. But    used to gravitate to the large, corporate-produced
               we felt an urgency because downtown Boise was        beverages.”
               in the midst of a renaissance with new businesses
               and bars, and we lucked into the perfect space. We     Larkin of Arsenal Cider House: “High-quality prod-
               might have balked and given up if not for that.”     ucts aren’t optional. It’s not just important for your
                                                                    business, but the business segment as a whole,
                 Larkin said, “If an opportunity seems like a good   especially in one as young as mead and cider. This
               one and we can afford it, we do it.” This approach   philosophy extends to how we source our ingredi-
               applies to both Arsenal’s stair-stepped location     ents, as well. If care isn’t taken with raw materials,
               expansion and shifting model.                        we can tell.”

                 “When we first opened, we planned to sell half       Leadbetter of Meriwether Cider Company: “After
               our inventory by refillable growler and the other    creating a good product, our main mission is to cre-
               half by bottle conditioning in Champagne bottles.    ate what Danny Meyers (restauranteur and CEO of
               We sold through the initial inventory so fast, we    Union Square Hospitality Group in New York City)
               never had the opportunity to do any type of pack-    calls ‘enlightened hospitality’: ‘treat your employ-
               aging, and we’ve just been trying to keep up all     ees well, and they will take care of your custom-
               these years,” he said. “We finally started canning   ers.’”
               one product and bottling a mead product for the
               first time after eight years in 2019. We now have      McGrath of the United States Association of Cider
               the capacity to expand our product offerings and     Makers: “Most people who love cider also love
               plan to do so in 2020.  It only took 10 years to get   food, and the consumer knowledge that cider pairs
               to it!”                                              really well with food is increasing. Regional cuisine
                                                                    cider-pairings, geographical cider cultures, a focus
                 McGrath told Beverage Master Magazine that         on locally-celebrated apples (like Gravenstein for
               “there are certain pockets of the cider market man-  Sonoma County in California)—these things all
               aging to make apple-forward ciders cool. That’s      make it a really fun time to create cider right now.”
               always been a challenge, especially in today’s craft
               beer culture. It’s controversial, but I think putting
               these types of ciders in cans is part of what’s help-
               ing drive that. It makes a complex, nuanced bever-
               age more approachable.”

                 She added that it’s important to “figure out how
               to incorporate educating consumers about apples

               34     December - January  2020       BEVERAGE MASTER





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