Virgil Gamache Farms, Inc. is a leading organic hop farm in the
heart of the Yakima Valley. The Gamache family began farming in here in the
Yakima Valley in 1913. They called their first farm “the Sunshine Ranch.” Here
the company’s founder, Virgil W. Gamache spent his formative years. The family
raised alfalfa, wheat, corn, potatoes, apples and grapes.
With the end of
Prohibition in 1932, the Gamaches lost no time in planting hops. In the mid
1940’s Virgil and his brother Francis took over the farm. Virgil eventually
became sole proprietor. Not long after, Mr. Gamache incorporated the family
business as Virgil Gamache Farms, Inc.
The family worked hard over the years to bring this thriving organic hop
farm to its ninth decade of production. The growth at the farm and the industry
as a whole today, would no doubt astound even Mr. Gamache.
A STARTLING DISCOVERY
Mr. Gamache himself
witnessed the beginning of a new chapter for the farm. In 1997 the Gamaches
discovered a brand new hop variety. The family designated this intriguing hop
variety as “VGXP01,” in honor of Mr. Gamache.
So with this new discovery,
the family began to market the carefully cultivated, organically grown VGXP01
hops as “Amarillo® brand.” Amarillo®
hops are hugely popular with craft brewers. Brewers apreciate Amarillo® hops
for their complex and delightful aromatic characteristics, including citrus,
floral, tropical fruit and spice tones.
Thus, Virgil Gamache
Farms and its Amarillo® brand launched a period of tremendous growth,
paralleling that of the booming craft brewing industry. With that, the
operation has grown from a small 15 acre ranch in 1932 to an organic hop farm
of over 1,000 acres today. In addition, VGF, Inc.’s auxiliary production
program produces under license an additionally significant volume of Amarillo®
brand hops. VGF partner farmers grow Amarillo® hops all across the Pacific
Northwest–in Washington, Oregon and Idaho–as well as multiple regions in
Germany.
ADVANCED ORGANIC HOP FARM
VGF’s operations have not
only grown in scale and geographic area, but also in creativity and in use of
new technology. Originally hops were all cultivated and gathered by hand, with
help from industrious native Americans and other neighbors. Today, the
operation is highly mechanized and automated. In addition, VGF’s lab monitors
hop quality to assure ideal harvest time. Thus, today’s VGF continues its
relentless pursuit of producing great hops for great brewers, in a growing
craft brewing community.
In summary, while
embracing the future we also honor our past. Our founder Virgil W. Gamache’s
life-long love of farming empowered him to celebrate his 100th birthday. Though
Virgil is no longer with us, his spirit of hard work and innovation lives on.
You see it in his sons and grandchildren who continue the tradition. It is a
tradition of excellence that defines Virgil Gamache Farms to this day.
ORGANIC HOP FARM
BEST PRACTICES
The Gamache family have a
love for the Pacific Northwest. It began when great grandfather Albert Gamache
first settled in the Yakima Valley in 1880’s. That love of the land is
demonstrated in the sense of stewardship that guides the everyday work at
Virgil Gamache Farms.
An important way to
respect the land is through organic farming. As a certified, organic hop farm,
our best practices include composting and returning all vines and organic farm
matter to the earth. We plant triticale, a natural grain ground cover, between
the hop rows to protect the soil from erosion. The triticale crop returns
organic matter to the soil as workers till it back at the end of the growing
season. It also support organic hop
farming by reducing the soil temperature and reducing the spread of wind and
dust-borne pests.
WATER AND RESOURCE CONSERVATION
Finally, the Gamache
family knows that water is a precious resource. VGF makes the most efficient
use of water with drip irrigation. Wireless controlled water valves direct the
limited water resources specifically where needed and in just the right
amounts. VGF takes care to recycle everything, including motor oils and
discarded metals. All these practices
work to ensure the legacy of founder Virgil Gamache and protects our beautiful
Yakima Valley.
Just because something is fun to do, doesn’t mean there isn’t a
robust science involved. Case in point: beer sensory. My relatives like to joke
that they also studied beer sensory in college, but I think the readers will be
aware of the difference between running a carefully randomized tetrad test and
doing a keg stand on a football player’s front porch. To properly conduct the
science of beer sensory, you start by finding 16-or-so willing participants
(shouldn’t be difficult) to undergo rigorous beer flavor training and
validation. Through this training and validation, you ensure that everyone is
speaking the same flavor language, describing specific flavor-active compounds
in agreed-upon terms.
While technology has come
a long way in helping us describe the chemical reactions taking place on brew
day, quantitative data from analytical equipment falls short in describing the
sensory experience of drinking a given beer – good news for your 16-or-so
panelists. The human nose is capable of detecting millions of aromas, and more
importantly, humans are capable of linking these aromas to incredibly specific
real-world objects like guavas or jasmine flowers. It’s an impressive feat, and
in this particular battle of Human vs Machine, we’re winning.
Beer Sensory in a Hop Context
Beer sensory is important
to the industry, but it’s far too time consuming and resource intensive to
assess every lot of hops during harvest this way. Enter: hop sensory. The
process of gathering and training panelists is similar to that of beer sensory,
but the results are produced a lot faster; thousands of samples can be assessed
within a harvest period. This allows for ruined harvest lots to be eliminated
from the get-go before expensive resources go into processing them. Hop sensory
produces a clear snapshot of different varieties from different growers,
harvested on different days, so that brewers participating in hop selection can
get exactly the product they’re looking for each crop year. Using this data, we
can reveal how the sensory characteristics of each variety are evolving over
time.
However, due to thousands
of reactions that take place during brewing, the key aromatic compounds
identified in hops have undergone many changes by the time they make it into
the final product, if they even make it at all. When brewing, hop compounds are
modified by thermal reactions, yeast biotransformation, chemical conversions
such as oxidation/reduction, hydrolysis, isomerization, ester exchange, and
even evaporation. During fermentation, for example, yeast metabolic activity
will biotransform geraniol (a bed of roses) into β-citronellol (zesty lemon),
completely changing the aroma characteristics of the beer. So, it’s not only
necessary to apply sensory to hop aroma, it’s vital to also focus on the aroma
compounds present in the end product – the beer brewed with these hops, to
fully understand which hop characteristics are of the greatest importance to
brewers.
To complicate matters
further, brewing components like malt and yeast contribute to flavor in varying
degrees depending on the beer style, and hops contribute non-aroma
characteristics to beer such as bitterness, mouthfeel, and haze, all of which
are important to monitor and assess in order to fully understand a hop’s full
contribution to beer.
Benefit to Growers
Hop growers are beginning to identify the specific genes responsible for producing certain flavor compounds and can use beer sensory data to zero in on the ones that actually make it into the final product.
Beer sensory assessment acts as a helpful stage in filtering through the thousands of experimental varieties that breeders develop to determine the lucky few that will be planted on a large scale and eventually released to the public. The whole process of new varietal development takes upwards of 12 years, with only one in every 10,000 new hop varieties ever making it to market. This lengthy, arduous, and resource heavy process relies on sound assurances that beer drinkers will embrace a new hop, in turn giving brewers a reason to welcome it onto their brewing schedule.
At the other end, when
growers wish to tweak production to increase efficiency, beer sensory can make
sure that any changes have not negatively impacted sensory attributes of the
final product. From optimizing harvest windows to dialing in the perfect kiln
temperature, growers use beer sensory feedback to guide the decision-making
process.
Benefit to Brewers
Brewers ask a lot of
questions. How do I get my beer to taste like starfruit? When in the process
should I add hops to achieve a perfect balance between fruity and bitter? How
will dry-hopped beer behave over time in different storage conditions? Answers
to such questions are critical for success, but not all commercial brewers have
the luxury of committing precious resources to pilot brews in order to find
them. Beer sensory scientists can glean important information from brewing the
exact same beer multiple times, tweaking only single aspects (like hop variety,
hop addition timing, or storage conditions). The results of sensory analysis on
these experiments can be passed to brewers, saving them time and capital, and
optimizing the quality of their outputs.
The results of beer
sensory studies also help brewers by guiding hop blend development to meet
specific market demands. For example, an additive effect has been found to
exist whereby the coexistence of linalool, geraniol, and β-citronellol creates
a strong flavor impression of lime – crucial information in a time where citrus
flavors in beer are fervidly sought, making access to hop products developed
using this information incredibly valuable.
To put it simply, brewers
just want to make good beer that people like, and sensory assessment is one
weapon in the arsenal that can be used towards that goal.
The Circle of Sensory
Hops growers, brewers, and
the beer market are linked in a never-ending feedback cycle. Growers develop
and produce a hop variety, brewers use it to make the best beer they can, and
the market lets us know what they think with their dollars. That information
gets passed back to growers, who can adjust according to what the people want.
And the stitches linking
this whole process together? You guessed it. Beer sensory.
At Yakima Chief Hops, we have
invested in a robust hop and beer sensory program, dedicating time and
resources to gathering this valuable information in-house that we then share
with our industry partners. Trained YCH staff members from all areas of the
company meet regularly to taste, sniff and evaluate various beers and hop varieties
with the guidance of our own Technical and Brewing Innovations teams. Drinking
beer is a tough job, but our employees are happy to take one for the team!
After all the time and energy spent on vine training, pest-free growth and meticulous care that hop farmers put into raising the best possible crop, the harvest can feel like a whirlwind that’s over in a flash. Depending on the types of hops grown and the climate in which they are farmed, hop harvest can run anywhere from early August to late September. But the actual timeframe to get hops picked during peak ripeness and quality is a short, week to 10-day span.
Hop ripeness and quality
are directly related to the moisture content and alpha acid levels of the hop
cones. Hops too high in moisture aren’t considered at peak alpha acid content.
Hops harvested too late can degrade quickly in storage, be more susceptible to
oxidation, and become more vulnerable to disease and pest contamination. Timing
is everything, and sampling is critical to make sure hops are at peak ripeness.
“It’s not that you can’t
harvest and get good hops after that peak ripening period,” said Sean
Trowbridge, co-owner of Top Hops Farm, LLC in Goodrich, Michigan. “It’s just
that after peak ripening, the hop integrity comes into question and can result
in product shatter during the picking process. Then you’re talking about the
potential of considerable product loss.”
Even when the harvest is
completed, there’s little time to relax. When not evaluating the year in
general, focus switches to working on sales and starting the farm tasks
involving post-harvest sanitation, soil care, weed eradication and addressing
any pest and disease issues that need attention. Since hops aren’t generally
considered a pick and pack crop, there are several drying techniques to bring
the moisture down so they can be stored safely without damaging the qualities
that they bring to craft beer.
“Immediately after
harvest, it’s drying and baling time for the hops,” said Trowbridge. “Then we
move 100% of the harvest to our pelletizers to have a fresh crop of current
year hop pellets for the breweries.”
Fall is Spent on Cleaning and Maintenance
“Cleaning, repairing and
readying our equipment for next year is usually done in the fall. Just by their
nature, hop cones can be pretty sticky, so after harvest, our equipment and
work areas can get gummed up just with all of the contact with the hops,” said
Trowbridge. “We take the time right after harvest to thoroughly clean the
pickers, conveyors, belts, totes, wagons and anything else that gets used
during harvest. Equipment like sprayers, whether boom or air blast type, need
to be winterized. You know, it’s initially just a lot of manual work, cleaning
and maintaining our equipment and getting our barns ready now for the next
growing season.”
Trowbridge told Beverage Master Magazine that after the equipment and buildings have been taken care of,
late fall is generally spent in the hop fields on end-of-season
responsibilities and plant management issues. Hopyard sanitation and cleanup is
a critical function to get done right after harvest because it decreases the
chances of disease and deters pest infestation for the next growing season.
This also includes some type of weed suppression, usually by laying down a
pre-emergent herbicide.
“As far as our hop yards
here, we let our vines go into dormancy and apply a pre-emergent in spring.
There’s no specific reason for that other than it seems to work better for us,
and just like in farming in general, each farmer has his way of doing things
that may not be the norm but have shown success in the past,” he said. “You
still have to monitor moisture levels, because even after harvest, the hop
vines need moisture for optimum winter survival. But once temperatures dictate
action, we have to blow out our suspended drip lines and irrigation systems to
prevent freezing and damage. Fall is the best time to get soil samples analyzed
for pH to see what’s left in the soil and what needs to be replenished. Hops
thrive in soil with a pH between 6.2 and 6.5, so fall is the time to make
corrections if needed. Liming is common, but takes time to become widely
incorporated into the soil.”
Hop scrap can be a subject
of contention. Some farmers take the hop scrap and compost it for use
elsewhere. Others return the composted scrap right back onto the fields, while
others take the scrap that’s not composted and spread it onto the fields. Every
farmer has their opinion on the matter. The decision on what to do with the hop
scrap is largely based on its condition. Were the hop vines healthy? Were there
any signs of downy mildew or other diseases that can overwinter in clippings
and on the ground?
“Late fall is also when we switch our tractor to a mowing head and weed badger to cut all the remaining parts of the hop vines down. There’s usually about 1½ feet left of the vines after harvest, so we cut them and leave them be,” said Trowbridge. “Then, in spring, we go back over the rows with a brush head to remove all of the debris off of the plants and leave only clean rows for new growth. We won’t typically tear out or replace any vines that are healthy and productive. Good healthy rootstock can last fifteen years easy.
Some of the European heritage farms may have fifty to a sixty-year-old rootstock. Sometimes after about ten years, the Western-based hop farms will replace a portion of their hops with a more vigorous growing stock or different variety, but it’s not common. We’ve only done it once, and that was based purely on economics, replacing a portion of very low-income generating hops with a higher income-generating variety.”
Winter Involves Building Relationships And Business
Trowbridge told Beverage Master Magazine that winter activities differ depending on where the hop is
grown. West Coast farms can just keep growing, putting their harvest into the
hands of brokers while they get back to producing more. In Michigan, Trowbridge
first focuses on wrapping up sales for any product that remains unsold. Much of
the harvest might already be spoken for, but any unsold product will be made
readily available for anyone interested.
In addition to sales
duties, Trowbridge said that winter is typically the time to refresh and renew
business contacts and associations and try to get more exposure for his farm.
He uses the winter months to attend any conferences or expos put on by hop
farmers associations or by the Craft Brewer’s Guild. He especially likes those
that allow him to set up a vendor tent or booth so he can personally get his
hop farm more exposure, make new contacts, refresh older ones and reach
potential customers on a personal basis.
Growing Organic: Norton’s Hop Farm
On the other side of the
hop growing spectrum, smaller, organic hop farms have a different view of the
post-harvest season.
Don and Tina Norton
maintain and operate Norton’s Hop Farms in Springfield, Oregon. Since 2008,
they have grown Cascade and Nugget varietals on their family-run, certified
organic hop farm. Because they’re organic growers, their post-harvest routine
is a little different than others.
“Well, we obviously don’t
have to spend the time applying the herbicides or pre-emergent weed killers,”
said Don Norton. “Most of my days are spent doing a lot of grass cutting and
weeding out in the fields. We don’t chemically treat for unwanted growth, so it
has to be continually weeded and mowed. We get a lot of blackberry growth in
this area in addition to the grass and weeds, so it all has to be kept up with
regularity. I do get basic soil testing done to see if we need to add lime and
adjust pH levels in our fields. We don’t fertilize until just before we expect
the new growth to appear, and that can happen in early January.”
In between weeding and
cutting, Norton spends time in the off-season on equipment maintenance as well
as checking and winterizing his water and irrigation lines. He doesn’t have the
same sales and marketing push that some larger volume farmers do because one of
the benefits of being a smaller volume, organic farm, is that his product is
generally sought after and already spoken for by regular customers.
“We’ve sold to our local
craft breweries in the past, but as of late, our harvest is sold to a locally
well-known organic herb company—Mountain Rose Herbs in Eugene, Oregon. They
need the whole flower of the hop, so we supply that to them. There’s also an
emerging market for our hop cuttings and vines for use in-store or in other decorative
displays, and also by local florists that like to use them in their creations.”
“One thing that makes us different than a
regular hop farm is that we don’t plant any cover crops or use any mulches in
between rows,” said Norton. “Instead, we lay a ground cloth with holes cut out
over the growing area for our hop plants to grow through. Doing it this way
helps keep our weeds and grasses to a manageable level so we can remain
organic.”
Hard Kombucha is one of the latest drinks to make a splash in the “better-for-you” alcoholic beverage market. But what is hard kombucha, you ask? Wait, what is kombucha?
Kombucha traces its roots
to China’s Qin Dynasty (221 BC), where it was known as the “The Tea of
Immortality” for its medicinal properties. The drink is made by mixing
sweetened black or green tea with a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast
called SCOBY and allowing it to ferment. The result is a tart and sour,
lightly-carbonated drink that’s naturally gluten-free, low in sugar and chocked
full of probiotics. With health-conscious millennials driving today’s beverage
industry, it’s no wonder that kombucha is experiencing a revival, and is one of
the fastest-growing beverages on the market today.
Kombucha first went mainstream in the U.S. in 1995 when GT Dave, the man behind GT’s Kombucha, established the first and largest kombucha brand in the industry. Promotion for the drink touted the health benefits of both tea and probiotics, and sales immediately exploded in supermarkets throughout the country.
With an ABV of less than 0.5%, kombucha could be sold legally as an alcohol-free beverage. In 2010, however, a Department of Agriculture inspector discovered a kombucha at a Maine Whole Foods that contained alcohol levels well above 0.5%. It was pulled off the shelves nationwide, and producers were left with three options: keep their kombuchas under 0.5% and follow strict labeling laws, sell them in the beer section at their current ABV, or create an intentionally higher ABV beverage. For those who chose the latter — a “hard” kombucha — the crisis presented a golden opportunity. The low-alcohol beverage with a healthy dose of probiotics caught on quickly, and in just a few short years, became the hot new kid on the beverage-industry block. According to Nielsen, sales of hard kombucha spiked 247% in the 52 weeks leading up to April 20, 2019.
One of the first to create
high-alcohol kombucha was Dr. Hops, based in San Francisco. “I was working in
Berkley with the fitness and yoga community, and craft beer was exploding and
doing amazing things,” said CEO and founder Joshua Rood. “Non-alcoholic
kombucha was also growing rapidly. I’ve always been a food and beverage guy.
When I saw this happening, I realized you could make a high-alcohol kombucha
that would be authentic to both categories, offering the benefits from the
health properties of straight kombucha, and the flavor, complexity and pleasure
of a really good craft beer.”
With only one hard
kombucha on the market at the time—Unity Vibration in Ypsilanti, Michigan—Rood
approached a brewer who was making both beer and kombucha and asked him to make
a prototype that offered the best of both beverage worlds. “The prototype was
awesome,” he said. “At the same time, my
wife had an adorable rabbit named Dr. Hops, and I thought, ‘what a perfect name
for a health-conscious kombucha that’s all hopped up.’ So that’s why we named
our product Dr. Hops.”
While Rood was developing
his product in 2016, another hard kombucha hit the market: Boochcraft,
California’s first high-alcohol kombucha, and today’s market leader in sales.
To make hard kombucha,
producers start with a mixture of sugar, tea and water. For his base, Rood
selects the highest organic quality and fair trade tea he can obtain. Next, he
adds SCOBY—a combination of bacteria and yeast that he’s developed in-house—and
adds it to the tea mixture. The concoction ferments for a week, allowing the
SCOBY to work and make kombucha what it is: a probiotic, sour and flavorful
drink. To raise the alcohol level beyond the 0.5% from the initial
fermentation, Rood adds a Belgian Ale yeast that creates a slight beer quality
and lets that mixture ferment for another week. This step raises the alcohol
level to 0.7 to 1%. Finally, after the
second fermentation is complete, Rood adds hops, fruit, herbs or spices and
“lets it rest” to let the flavors develop.
“This is a very mellow waiting period,” Rood told Beverage Master Magazine. “We gently stir the mixture and let the particulate matter sink
to the bottom. Then we add a bit of sugar, which gives the kombucha a touch of
sweetness, and finally, we package it.”
Dr. Hops makes four
standard products: the IPK, similar to a juicy IPA; the Lop, a tart, refreshing
pomegranate chai with prominent grapefruit notes; the Jackalope, with prominent
ginger, lime and mint flavors; and the Blinky, with hints of basil and
lemongrass. All are dry-hopped with hops sourced from the Pacific Northwest.
Sugars vary from 4-6%, and ABV runs from 5-9%. Flavors come from fresh, organic
fruits rather than flavoring compounds.
In terms of legal
classification, hard kombucha is typically classified as a beer rather than a
wine product. The Dr. Hops production facility is similar to a brewery, with
stainless steel tanks and temperature, pressure and oxygen controls. To produce
optimum results, brewers have to be very meticulous, Rood explained. “The
process goes through many different phases, and each phase has the potential to
create benefits as well as off-flavors. It’s really an art. We have to check
fermentation constantly, as it’s a living process and not an exact formula,
although we’re getting pretty good at it.”
Ultimately, Rood’s goal is
to create a product that is “good for your belly” and “good for your
buzz.” Hard kombuchas have less sugar
than anything in the alcohol world, he said, except for pure vodka. “As
Americans, sugar is one of the worst things we consume, so we keep ours as low
as possible.”
Rood also uses a kombucha
strain that’s rich with alcohol-resistant lactobacillus, a health-enhancing
probiotic. Because Dr. Hops’ products are unfiltered and unpasteurized (heating
from pasteurization destroys enzymes, organics and flavors), the probiotics
stay in the beverage, helping the body process not just food, but also alcohol.
Another health benefit: Dr. Hops uses only organic fruits, roots and herbs,
which provide additional nutrients.
“Essentially, we’re trying
to eliminate the junk people put in their bodies while drinking alcohol,” Rood
said. “When you take all of our ingredients together, you have a beverage
that’s remarkably distinct and much healthier.”
As more and more
health-conscious imbibers turn to beer/kombucha blends, Dr. Hops is enjoying
great success. Currently, the company produces 1,000 barrels a year, with plans
to triple—or even quadruple—production within the next year. Right now, they package their kombucha in
bottles, but Rood intends to switch to cans soon. Dr. Hops is available in
liquor stores and independent food stores and markets in Northern California
and is on tap in several bars in the Oakland, California area. Rood’s goal is
to increase distribution to the western third of the country and Florida.
“Sales have been amazing,”
he said. “It’s something people want,
but most don’t know it until they discover it, and then they get very excited
about it.”
Within the past couple of
years, many up-and-coming hard kombucha brands have emerged within the growing
industry, including Flying Embers, KYLA, JuneShine and Lambrucha. Established
kombucha producers are also getting in on the action. Wild Tonic, originally a
regular kombucha brand, created two hard kombucha products: one with 5.6% ABV
and one with 7.6% ABV. Kombrewcha, one of the country’s pioneering hard
kombucha brands, received backing from AB InBev’s investment arm, ZX Ventures,
to produce a new line of hard kombuchas.
It’s not only AB InBev
getting in on the action, however. Craft breweries have also extended their
product portfolio to include hard kombucha. For example, New Holland Brewing, a
Holland, Michigan craft beer brand that’s been around for over 20 years, now
produces a seasonal offering that combines the flavors of an IPA with Kombucha.
Boston Beer, maker of Samuel Adams, recently launched Tura Hard Kombucha. And
Deschutes Brewery in Bend, Oregon collaborated with Humm Kombucha to create
Humm Zinger, “a beer that blends together Humm’s tangy grapefruit kombucha with
Cascade hops and Pilsner malt for big citrus flavor with a profound dry hop
character.”
Clearly, hard kombucha is hitting the
mainstream. After all, what’s not to like? It’s all-natural, gluten-free,
organic and vegan, low in sugar and calories yet contains enough alcohol to be
fun. As part of the low-alcohol trend, which includes hard seltzers, hard
ciders and low-alcohol spirits, hard kombucha has a lot of opportunities to
grow. If you think you might be one of those who want it but don’t know it yet,
hustle off to your favorite vegan restaurant, grocery or liquor store and check
it out.
In 2016, the Northwest Cider Association received a specialty crop grant from the Oregon Department of Agriculture. This grant enabled them to launch a signifi-cant initiative encouraging farmers to plant cider apple trees in the Pacific North-west. The Northwest Cider Association chose to focus these planting efforts in Oregon in two areas: Willamette Valley and Hood River.
While there has always
been a small selection of heirloom cider apples available for small-batch
releases, this initiative marks the first time post-prohibition that a sizable
number of cider apples will be available to cider makers. Will these ap-ples
bear fruit in the burgeoning cider market?
Currently, there is no
available national data on the breakdown of cider made with cider apples versus
dessert apples. Michelle McGrath, Executive Director of the United
States Association of Cider Makers, attributes this lack of statistics to the fact that the U.S.
cider market consists primarily of many very small cideries. As such, their sales
are not reflected in any of the scan-based data found in trade reports.
Even though a majority of
ciders available in grocery stores, bars and restaurants are made with dessert
apples, a large percentage of the cideries in the U.S. uti-lize cider apples.
In McGrath’s estimation, “Fifty percent of our paying members grow their own
apples, and 50% of our paying members are using cider apples to make cider.”
Furthermore, regional
brands continue to absorb more of the cider market share, and these brands
offer a greater variety of ciders to consumers. McGrath says that in 2012,
regional brands represented about 8% of the cider retail market, a number that
has risen to 34% today. Also, regional brands of cider sales have grown 16% in
the last year, while national brands declined 9%. Because national brands
represent more of the total market share, the net result is an overall de-cline
of 2% in domestic retail cider sales in 2018.
At first glance, this
appreciation for small regional craft ciders seems to indicate consumers will
be interested in paying a premium for heirloom ciders made with cider apples. Crystie
Kisler,
co-founder of Finnriver Farm & Cidery, observes how the
consumer’s palate has evolved since 2008 when she founded an 80-acre farm situated
in Chimacum Valley, Washington.
“We have appreciated seeing how the sensibilities and palate of folks in the cider-drinking community have evolved over the years,” Kisler says. “We get a lot of interest in our homegrown ‘estate’ ciders—featuring those traditional cider apple varieties with greater complexity—and enjoy seeing people discover the nuances and possibilities in cider fruit.”
Kisler’s partner at
Finnriver, Eric Jorgensen, says that the higher price point of cider made from
cider apples does not appear to deter customers who travel to their tasting
room. “I’d say that despite their higher price point, when we have them
available, they are just as popular as our ciders made from dessert fruit. That
preference runs the full range of consumers—we get a very broad spectrum of
people coming to visit us.”
According to Jorgensen,
this consumer interest in cider apples can be attributed to several factors:
flavor profiles that are nuanced, interesting and complex; gen-eral values
around tradition and the rediscovery of these apple varieties; and in-terest in
products made with ingredients farmed locally and on a smaller scale.
From the cidermaker’s
perspective, Andrew Byers, Head Cidermaker & Produc-tion Manager at
Finnriver, says the advantage of producing cider apples is based in complexity.
“Making cider from dessert fruit—be it antique varietals or more modern
releases—is making cider from fruit that was conceptualized for a differ-ent
purpose, such as eating a fresh apple, or saucing, or baking a pie. Cider fruit
has been selected for the qualities they bring to the cider. Body, phenolics,
aro-matics—all that cannot be found in a dessert-fruit-based ferment.”
Byers describes how these
apples can transport drinkers to another level. “[Cider apples] waltz you
across the room with ease to a place of wonderment where you didn’t know
‘apples could do that.’ [They bring you to] that lovely platform of hav-ing
your horizons broadened—a place to realize you just discovered a previously unknown
potential. Cider fruit, each year, is an opportunity to waltz with the pub-lic
and show them the best we can be.”
Some logistical challenges
are inherent in growing cider apples not necessarily found when producing
dessert apples. Tim Larsen, owner and cidermaker at Snowdrift Cider Company in East Wenatchee,
Washington, says, “These apples were never cultivated because they grew in an
orchard so well, or because they yielded so many tons to an acre. They are
grown because of their flavor and aroma. Furthermore, fermentation and aging of
cider apples is a fair bit different than working with modern eating apples.”
Larsen designed his new operation, Sunred Cider, to manage these challenges for
cidermakers and streamline the process between growers and producers.
Adding to the cost of
producing cider fruit is the U.S. law prohibiting farmers from harvesting
apples that fall to the ground. Hence, farmers cannot mechanically harvest
these apples on a large scale, unlike in the U.K., where apples can be
harvested after they’ve fallen off the trees.
Larsen points to the need
for consumer education. In his estimation, “most peo-ple see cider as a sort of
holistic Mike’s Hard Lemonade.” He attributes this per-ception to the fact that
most large scale cider operations are forced to rely on a very restricted
supply of apple juice that, at its best, is pretty uninteresting. They spice up
their product, adding flavorings, sweeteners and colors. “This is great if you
want something that tastes like alcoholic watermelon juice with hibiscus or
some other flavor combination, but it’s not great if you want to experience
real cider,” he said.
Ryal Schallenberger of Northwest Mobile Juicing says that cidermakers try to distance themselves from the apples when they are using bulk juice. “They make comments on their labels that are generic like ‘fresh northwest juice.’ Folks that are using traditional cider apples say so on their labels, for the most part.” This distinction may be apparent to cider connoisseurs; however, this differentiation does not seem to be conveyed to the general public.
The question, though, is
how many consumers crave “real cider” given the popu-larity of ciders made with
added pineapple, hops, botanicals or spices? In 2018, apple cider without added
fruits, spices or botanicals constituted 63% of national retail sales. Even
though over half of all sales in 2018 were ciders made with ap-ples, the trend
toward producing non-apple ciders appears to be on the rise. For example, Jeff
Parrish,
co-owner of Portland Cider Company, notes that consumer
demand continues to increase for ciders made with pineapples, pears, and other
non-apple fruit.
In his analysis, Parrish
does not view large-scale production of cider apples tak-ing off unless enough
cider apples are grown and harvested to bring the cost down to the same price
point as craft beer. Simply put, not enough consumers are willing to pay $10 to
$12 for a bottle of cider made with premium Pacific Northwest cider apples to
justify producing it on a large scale.
Also, Jorgensen says the
general cider distribution market trends towards cans, and thus towards higher
production volumes. He’s not aware of anyone with ac-cess to enough
“traditional” cider juice to be able to package and sell in large quantities,
let alone at a price point comparable to the more contemporary ciders on the
market.
Emily Ritchie, Executive Director at Northwest Cider Association, acknowledges the difficulties faced by craft cideries like the Portland-based Cider Riot. They closed their doors in November 2019 as they found themselves unable to produce their award-winning heirloom ciders while also maintaining a viable cidery and pub. “Right now, it’s harder to keep a business open when you’re just using cider fruit, as your price points are higher,” Ritchie says.
In assessing the future of
cider apples, Parrish points to cider’s long history as a working man’s drink.
“It’s never been seen as having a high intrinsic value, and will not be viewed
by the mass market as having a high value similar to wine.” In his estimation,
history has proven that cider apples will remain a niche market with a loyal
following.
Conversely, Ritchie
compares the potential growth of Pacific Northwest cider ap-ples to the growth
of the wine industry in Oregon over the last 30 years. Those who planted the
first vineyards in Willamette Valley and other AVA’s began from a place where
they had no name recognition into producing internationally re-nowned Pinot
Noirs and other varietals.
With the first harvest
from these aforementioned cider trees slated for 2020, will cider apples join
Pinot Noir grapes as a fruit that defines this region? Time and price point
will tell.
Barley has been around for some 10,000 years. When this ancient
grain was introduced in the United States, in New England during the 17th
century, it was produced specially to quench the thirst of colonists who wanted
to make beer.
Malted barley remains the
key ingredient in the world’s oldest and most consumed alcoholic beverage.
Today, the market for malting barley is directly impacted by the weather and
economy of the area where it grows. In the U.S., 90% of barley grows throughout
the Northern Plains into the Pacific Northwest. The climate of this region is
colder and arider, ideal conditions for producing the high-quality barley
needed for brewing beer.
Grown Under Contract
Virtually all U.S. malting
barley is grown under contract with a brewer or maltster. Those contracts
generally call for specific varieties demanded by breweries—typically two-row
or six-row. Breweries determine what barley varieties they need based upon
brewing techniques, cost and the desired flavor of the finished product. Many
craft brewers prefer to brew beers using directly sourced ingredients and will
partner with local barley growers, eventually using the “locally grown” angle
in their product marketing.
Barley growers generally
seek contracts that secure price premiums in exchange for growing a specific
barley variety. Those premium prices help the grower offset the higher
production costs tied to a lower-yielding crop. Developing a dedicated crop of
malting barley is not without substantial risk. Bad weather and disease can
destroy an otherwise profitable yield. Any product that doesn’t make the grade
gets relegated to the feed market and downgraded in price, which for the grower
can be half or less of the original crop value.
The Value of American-Grown
Barley
According to The Brewers
Association, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Colorado and Wyoming are the top
five states producing barley for malting. These regions use the power of
science, technology, economics and strategic planning to gain an edge in a
marketplace that is increasingly global.
The U.S. Grains Council
helps track the journey of America’s barley crop from farm to glass around the
world. Its latest statistics reveal that American-grown barley accounts for
more than 190 million barrels of annual beer production in the U.S. alone.
Foreign markets, including Mexico, are taking notice. Under NAFTA, malted
barley from the U.S. enters Mexico duty-free. That is an attractive option to
Mexico’s breweries, which depend upon imported malted barley because Mexico has
no way to produce it independently. According to the Grains Council, Mexico
purchased more than 18 million bushels of barley, worth $209 million in its
most recent purchasing year.
It is that buying
potential that makes global markets attractive to the U.S. malting barley
industry. Brian Sorenson, Program Director for the Northern Crop Institute of
North Dakota State University, said that in addition to its research-driven
programs and courses, the NCI plays a critical role in connecting barley
breeders, scientists and growers with buyers and processors worldwide.
“NCI helps to bring U.S.
barley growers in touch with global markets by providing courses to educate
grain buyers on how the U.S. grain handling and trading systems function,”
Sorenson said. “NCI’s Grain Procurement Management for Importers Course is held
each September and typically educates over 30 participants (mostly from
overseas) on how to purchase high-quality grains from the U.S. and showcases
the crops produced in the Northern Great Plains states of North Dakota, South
Dakota, Minnesota and Montana.”
The NCI is also a
significant player in the science and research designed to help stakeholders
reach what Sorenson describes as the ultimate goal: to produce optimal quality malting
barley for brewing consistent, top-quality beer.
“It is important for each
of those involved to understand what the other players contend within their
particular role,” said Sorenson. “Developing new barley varieties that can make
it possible for farmers to grow and deliver the quality needed by the maltster
profitably, and ultimately, the brewer is an extremely difficult set of tasks.
Barley breeders work hard to stay ahead of the changing agronomic challenges,
such as crop diseases, as well as the need for high production yield, and at
the same time satisfy the quality demands of the end-users.”
Quality control factors
include color and kernel plumpness, protein content, moisture, skinned or
broken kernels, and sprout damage.
Breeding Strong Varietals
Science is the universal
language in barley breeding, and Dr. Paul Schwarz is among the leaders in
research, development and breeding applications for the malted barley industry.
He is a professor at NDSU’s Department of Plant Sciences, specializing in the
area of malting barley quality. NDSU has a barley breeding program, as do other
land grant universities in barley producing states.
Dr. Schwarz told Beverage Master Magazine that science has a pivotal role in breeding new varieties of
malting barley as well as sustaining the successes of current ones.
“Breeding is the
application of several branches of science including biology,
genetics-genomics, biochemistry and statistics,” said Schwarz. “Barley breeding
has closely followed developments in science and often uses the newest tools.
As an example, in the past, breeders would make a cross and then have to screen
thousands of progeny in the field or lab to select the most desirable. Today,
with advances in genomics, they can identify genes of importance and use DNA
techniques to screen lines that have desired traits.”
Schwarz also stresses that
the breeding process combines the expertise of scientists across multiple
fields. “When we think breeding, we think breeder,” he said. “However, the
development of new varieties is a team effort. In the past, it has involved the
breeder/geneticist, an agronomist, a plant pathologist, and maybe an end
product specialist (cereal chemist) to evaluate malting quality. Today, this
list has expanded to include a molecular biologist and often a bio-informaticist
[to handle the large amounts of data gathered]
.”
Fusarium Head Blight
One of the biggest threats
to a barley crop that NDSU and other land-grant schools try to combat on behalf
of barley growers is fusarium head blight, also known as “head scab.” This
disease infects the head of the crops, reducing grain yield and impacting the
producer’s bottom line. While FHB is more prevalent in humid, wetter climates
such as the eastern U.S., in recent years, changing weather patterns have
forced barley growers as far as the Northern Plains to begin routinely
safeguarding their crops using fungicides. Malting companies across the country
sample and grade every truckload of barley coming into receiving stations,
regularly deploying stringent and frequent testing for FHB and its accompanying
mycotoxin contamination.
There are assessment tools
that can predict weather patterns and other factors in any region of the U.S.
where FHB is likely to develop. FHB forums are held around the country,
including those spearheaded by the U.S. Wheat and Barley Scab Initiative. This
group also coordinates research projects aimed at combining current data with
new exploratory channels designed to develop tools and strategies to reduce FHB
and mycotoxin contamination. The research benefits barley producers, malting
companies, and the breweries that use malted barley.
Advocating for Growers
Such potential risks for
barley growers are among the subjects on the agenda of the National Barley
Growers Association, which advocates for public policy on behalf of its
members. Dale Thorenson, a former North Dakota farmer, is an agricultural
lobbyist with Gordley Associates and an officer in the National Barley Growers
Association.
“NBGA has worked to try to
keep farm policy equitable between crops so that the market price determines
what crops – including barley – are grown, rather than farm policy,” Thorenson
told Beverage Master Magazine. “This includes having a viable federal crop
insurance policy available for barley including the malt barley endorsement,
which provides coverage based on the malt price rather than the underlying feed
value for barley. It’s also important for barley growers and the malt and beer
industry that adequate funding is appropriated every year for the wheat and
barley scab initiative, so that research continues on methods to combat
fusarium head blight. Finally, NBGA has joined with the malt and beer industry
to support equitable excise tax rates for beer, and the coalition was
successful in getting the Craft Beer Modernization & Tax Reform Act
(CBMTRA) included in the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017. That reform expires at
the end of 2019, and we are still working at getting this legislation extended
into future years.”
Seeking Satisfaction
Public policy, scientific applications and
emerging markets create a unique mix for malting barley growers, whose success
is measured by consistently producing successful crops that satisfy maltsters
and breweries who, in turn, seek to satisfy the tastes of beer consumers.
Choosing the right hops can be a complicated task. Some breweries
choose hops based on past agreements – they have long-standing relationships
with growers they feel confident will provide what they need, at the highest
quality. Some search out their hops based on geography, based on knowledge of
which plant grows better in Washington than in Oregon or Idaho. Some experiment
with hops growers who are creating new varieties and bringing them to market.
Others just want a Citra, or an Alpha, or a Cascade, and make a spot purchase.
Whichever path they choose, what truly matters is the quality of the hop and
the right varietal for the beer.
Purchasing Based on Terroir
Thomas Bleigh, Innovation
Brewmaster at Craft Brew Alliance’s Ph Experiment in Oregon, chooses his hops
based on the terroir.
“While I don’t have any
empirical evidence to support this, I, historically, have had a preference for
Oregon-grown vs. Washington-grown Cascade hops. Much of it was the most likely
narrative for the beer that we produced, but we did run trials on Cascade in
our flagship single-hop Cascade Ale, and we found a preference in one
supplier,” Bleigh said. “Much of this would have been tied to a qualitative raw
source, but we also believed that processing played a role in the character of
the hop.”
Despite Bleigh’s
preference for Oregon-grown, the CBA doesn’t limit themselves to hops from one
state over another, instead, focusing on locally sourced ingredients. This is
undoubtedly the case at their Redhook brewpub in Seattle.
“Currently, our Redhook
BrewLab is working on a series called Washington Native that focuses on
Washington sourced malts and salmon-safe sourced Washington hops,” said Bleigh.
“That project is an interesting example of trying to tease our nuance based on
regional distinction. One of the challenges is that while Pacific Northwest
breweries are hyper-aware and engaged in local sourcing, we are also mindful that
these hops service the majority of domestic craft.”
Hop varietals, just like
any plant, thrive in some regions over others. At the same time, varietals that
thrive in any environment can develop characteristics based on the soil and
weather of the area where they grow. Terroir is often spoken of regarding
winegrapes but can also be applied to other crops, particularly those involved
in the creation of alcoholic beverages.
“Yakima, given its dry
climate, is a much better growing region for higher alpha hop varieties and
Nuevo IPA hop varieties. These proprietary hops (such as Citra, Mosaic, Azacca)
all fare better in Washington than they do in Oregon. Idaho presents an
interesting domestic terroir character, and they have now surpassed Oregon for
hops produced and are becoming more of a geographic force in the industry,”
Bleigh said.
Larry Sidor, Co-Founder,
Master Brewer and CEO at Crux Fermentation Project in Bend Oregon, knows hops
and appreciates why different regions and growers yield a range of
characteristics.
“Terroir, climate
conditions during kilning, as well as processing methods post field harvest
make all the difference. When hops are dried in Oregon the ambient temperatures
are lower than Washington, but the humidity is higher, yielding significant
differences. Methods of preserving the hops differ quite widely and can
contribute different nuances. An example is “farmer bales” that are dried,
packed loosely, and then stored in barns. Books can and have been written about
all the differences. The resulting beer is also different,” Sidor said.
Sidor does have a
preference, however. “Being a native Oregonian, my belief and preference is
that Willamette Valley grown hops are the best in the world. I may be a bit
biased, I’ve brewed with hops from every major hop growing region in the world,
so that should count for something,”
Christian DeBenedetti of
Wolves and People Brewery in Newberg, Oregon, feels that the amount of sensory
and flavor research and description in the industry is at an all-time high. His
brewery wants growers with proven track records and a full grasp on their
fields and crops.
“Hops are almost like wine
varietals at this point. There are so many interesting old and new varieties
being cultivated with real care, and we definitely look to favored growers who
can communicate accurately about their hops and lots. They vary by year and
even by the lot, because of variations in soil and site. So we’re looking for a
combination of characteristics we can bring forward in a well-made beer,”
DeBenedetti said. “Soil chemistry and farming techniques both affect hop
flavor. Take Cascade, for example, a classic aroma hop. In Oregon and
Washington, it tends to grapefruit and pine. In New Zealand, which is free of
the sort of pests that plague other growing regions, it’s often more
melon-like. This is due to the soil it’s grown in. This a perfect reflection of
terroir in beer.”
Which Comes First, the Hops or
the Brew?
Brewers vary in their
approach to creating a beer recipe. Sometimes, an idea for a new brew will come
to them, and they will search out the ingredients to make it. Other times, it’s
the ingredients themselves that inspire a recipe.
At Crux Fermentation
Project, Sidor prefers experimenting with hops and letting them do the talking.
“I don’t brew a beer until I’ve acquired the materials to brew it,” he said.
“Once they are acquired, I then look for the best way to utilize them in a
formulation. Crux tends to bring in a dozen or so new hops every year with the
intent of experimenting with them using this approach. I don’t have an idea
about a brew when I purchase a hop. I typically brew a single-hop brew to get a
feel for the hop. The result is usually a very one-dimensional beer that isn’t
very interesting. This doesn’t mean the hop is bad; it means that other hops
are needed in the brew to make it shine.
A good example of this is
the Strata hop. By itself, it is very one dimensional, when in combination with
other hops, it’s a rock star. One hop that seems to shine all by itself is the
Sabro hop. Have only brewed one brew so far, but as a single hop brew, the
Sabro delivered a very layered and interesting beer. In short, you need to let
the hop tell you what beers it’s going to shine in.”
Wolves and People Brewery
has built beers around individual hops. “There are new aroma varieties that
play up fruity, tropical aromas like passionfruit, lychee, coconut and mango.
We want those traits to be front and center, so we build a recipe almost like a
stage to pop those bright, high-tone aromas to the fore. Sometimes we’re doing
the complete opposite. We want a beer that has spice character, some old-world
bitterness and aroma, then we go looking for those varieties and use what’s
freshest,” DeBenedetti said.
Experimental Hops
Joe Catron, “Hoperations”
Manager at Yakima Chief Ranches, feels right now is the Golden Age of hops and
beer. Three hop farming families created Yakima Chief with the sole purpose of
creating new world-class hops varieties and bringing them to market. The
process of creating a new hop takes up to a decade and can cost upwards of a
million dollars from cross-pollination, to market research, to placement in the
marketplace. The ranch releases one new hop approximately every year.
“We make several crosses
each year and generally result in 30-50,000 seedlings in any given year,”
Catron told Beverage Master Magazine. “In my seven years working here we have
released five varieties: four flavoring and aroma for the American scene and
one super alpha hop for bittering for the big macro brewers.”
Yakima Chief has
experienced immense growth over the years. When Catron started in 2013, there
were three owner-growers and 900 acres planted. As of 2019, there are now 45
farms in Washington, Oregon and Idaho, with 15,000 acres managed.
The ranch applies a “fail
fast” mentality. They run a hop through the gamut, and if it doesn’t check off
all the boxes, it goes to the scrap heap. However, they did have a quasi-flop
that eventually became a success.
“The Simco hop was
released 20 years ago as a dual purpose hop alpha and aroma. We couldn’t give
it away. Some said it was too pungent, punchy and dank. We were going to tear
down the bines, but Russian River Brewing found it and liked it, and it became
a champion in the beer called Pliny the Elder. Vinny, the head brewer is a cult
hero amongst brewers. He helped to save the variety, and now there are 3,000
acres of this hop planted. It was definitely before it’s time and needed a new
audience,” Catron said.
Crux Fermentation’s Sidor
has seen experimentation change the hops market throughout his career, due to
the increase in craft brewing and the demand for the next big thing.
“When I started brewing,
only Cluster and Fuggle were available. You could bring in hops from Europe,
but most were at a state of oxidation higher than acceptable,” he said. “My
concern now is, can the hop breeder keep up with the customer demand for
‘what’s new?’ Remember that Cascade was revolutionary in the 1970s, Citra 40
years later, Galaxy 5 years after that. The thing that has accelerated hop
breeding is the customer demand, the technical tools now available to the hop
researcher, and the money available to do the research. My only concern is that
not enough money is being spent on breeding public varieties by the USDA.”
Craft Brew Alliance’s pH
Experiment specializes in trying new things, and Bleigh enjoys testing hop
varieties. “We are heavily invested in trialing new hop varieties and working
with the Hop Research Council to explore new varietals and to support public
breeding of hops. Our initial explorations have shaped our early pioneering
interest in hops like Citra and Galaxy, which have very specific tropical hop
characters that are signature hops in some of our brands,” he said.
Hops play an essential
role in the craft beer industry, helping create distinct brews with
complimentary varietal combinations and terroir. With a high demand for more
hops and hops growers, and places like Yakima Chief Ranch creating new cross
breeds nearly every year, the U.S. hops industry can only continue to bloom.
“American
hops is the world leader right now. It’s a special time to be alive,” Catron
said.
By: Amy Lessa and Nicole Stenoish, Attorneys At Law, Fisher Phillips
Marijuana legalization is on the rise and quickly expanding to all corners of the United States. Nearly 2/3 of the states have legalized marijuana for either recreational or medicinal use. Currently, 11 states and the District of Columbia allow recreational marijuana, and an additional 22 states allow medical marijuana. These numbers are expected to grow over the next few years as the societal and political perspectives on cannabis continue to shift in favor of legalization.
Despite this shift, marijuana still remains an illegal Schedule I drug under the federal Controlled Substances Act – in direct contrast with legalized marijuana at the state level. Although federal law is superior to state law, businesses must comply with both – even if federal and state laws conflict with one another. The chronic dispute between state and federal marijuana laws has left many employers confused about how to handle marijuana use in the workplace. We’re here to clear the smoke.
Legalized Marijuana – What Can-a-Business Do?
Marijuana laws are constantly evolving and continue to be challenged in courts across the country. This makes it difficult to keep up with the requirements and limitations of legalized marijuana under both state and federal law.
Many employers are now questioning whether their workplace marijuana policies and practices should be revised. Before deciding what policy is best for your company, it is important to understand the law in your state. A company’s policies should also reflect the specific needs and challenges of the business and workforce. For example, many craft brewery owners report they can no longer test for cannabis because most of their applicants cannot pass the drug test at the pre-employment stage. That could leave a brewery without a workforce. As a result, Company’s should decide whether it makes sense to continue testing for cannabis in their pre-employment drug screens. Other issues relevant to this determination are whether your employees operate heavy machinery or work in safety sensitive positions, and are you having difficulty recruiting qualified candidates for your company?
There are several key issues the keep in mind when determining the best marijuana policies and practices for your workforce:
Maintain a Drug-Free Workplace
Employers are entitled to maintain specific policies related to marijuana use in the workplace, including drug-free workplace and zero-tolerance policies. Because marijuana remains illegal under federal law, employers can strictly prohibit marijuana at work. Employees can be disciplined, and even terminated, for coming to work under the influence, possessing marijuana on company premises, or using marijuana while at work – even in states where marijuana is legal. In most states, companies also have the right to test employees for drug use, and can discipline or terminate employees for violation of the drug-free workplace policy. Before implementing a zero-tolerance policy, make sure your state does not specifically protect medical marijuana users or prevent employers from disciplining workers for legal off-duty conduct. Otherwise, drug-free workplace policies are essential to help protect your business and manage employees in the wake of legalized marijuana.
Review Drug Testing Policies
Employers can typically require employee drug testing throughout employment. The different types of testing including pre-employment drug testing, random drug testing, reasonable suspicion drug testing, and post-accident drug testing depending on state laws. Employers with mandatory drug testing policies need to ensure they follow specific state laws restricting disciplinary action based on positive test results. Additionally, employers are prohibited from administering drug tests as a form of discipline or for retaliatory purposes. There are several other issues to consider when reviewing your company’s drug testing policies.
First, the science used to test for marijuana has been slow to catch up with increased legalization. While there are testing methodologies currently in development, there is no test to determine whether an individual is presently under the influence of marijuana. Marijuana can remain in one’s system for weeks, and an employee could test positive for marijuana even if it was consumed outside of work and had no impact on the employee’s job performance. This creates potential issues for employers when drug testing employees who have medical marijuana prescriptions, or in states where recreational marijuana is allowed.
Also, many states have laws that provide protections for engaging in legal off-duty conduct. These laws prohibit employers from considering an employee’s lawful conduct outside of work for purposes of making employment decisions. For example, in states where recreational marijuana is legal, the consumption of marijuana outside of work hours could be considered lawful off-duty conduct, and an employer could be prohibited from using an employee’s positive drug test for purposes of making an adverse employment decision. Although this issue remains largely untested by the courts, and employers are currently allowed to make certain employment decisions based on drug test results, we anticipate that employee drug test results will be challenged by lawful off-duty conduct laws in the years to come.
Furthermore, employers in a limited number of states may need to accommodate medical marijuana usage by employees. In those circumstances, employers are prohibited from making employment decisions based on an employee’s positive test result, depending on the nature of the employee’s particular position and job duties.
Pre-employment Drug Testing
Companies are generally allowed to require drug testing as a condition of employment, and can deny employment based on positive test results. However, some states limit pre-employment drug testing for medical marijuana users, and other states have anti-discrimination laws for pre-employment drug test results.
Interestingly, an increasing number of companies, including those in the craft beverage industries, are eliminating pre-employment drug testing because of difficulties it can pose in finding employees who can pass the test. As a result, some employers are softening their drug testing policies or removing marijuana from the list of drugs tested for. However, softening the stance on pre-employment marijuana drug testing may not be a viable option for companies with employees working in safety-sensitive positions, or companies with insurance policies or government contracts that specifically require employee drug testing.
Drug Testing During Employment
Employers may also consider random drug testing, reasonable suspicion drug testing, and post-accident drug testing of employees. Random drug testing is only allowed in some states and often limited to employees in specific, narrowly defined classifications – such as employees working in safety sensitive positions. Almost all states allow employers to drug test employees if there is reasonable suspicion that an employee is impaired on the job. Reasonable suspicion must be more than a hunch, and employers should be able to articulate the employee’s specific conduct or behaviors that led the employer to suspect impairment on the job. Employers can also conduct post-accident drug testing following a workplace injury or accident, but only for employees whose impairment or drug use could have contributed to the incident.
Overall, companies should review state-specific laws and consider the specific needs and challenges of their workforce when reviewing or revising drug testing policies and practices. And you should always put drug testing policies in writing, distribute to your employees, and enforce the policies uniformly.
Accommodation of Medical Marijuana Varies by State
Generally, employers do not need to accommodate medical marijuana in the workplace. However, this could soon change. Courts in several states have recently indicated that accommodating an employee’s medical marijuana use may be appropriate in certain situations. Employers already must engage their employees in the interactive process to explore reasonable accommodations for known disabilities of an employee. In some circumstances, this could mean accommodating medical marijuana use if it is determined to be a reasonable accommodation that does not create an undue hardship on the Company. Before doing so, however, employers should consult with qualified legal counsel.
Employers also need to be careful when disciplining medical marijuana users. Several states have specific laws protecting medical cannabis patients from employment discrimination. Medical marijuana patients in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and Pennsylvania, for example, have already won lawsuits against companies that rescinded job offers or fired workers because of positive tests for cannabis. Medical marijuana laws are continuing to evolve, and protections for medical marijuana users are likely to increase.
Conclusion – Best Practices
An increasing number of states have legalized medical or recreational marijuana, yet the federal government continues to classify marijuana as an illegal drug. This conflict between state and federal law is not likely to be resolved anytime soon. In the meantime, employers should follow several best practices to manage employees where marijuana has been legalized.
Companies should carefully review these issues and create policies that balance legal compliance with the specific needs of the business. Until the conflict between state and federal law is resolved, this includes:
Stay up to date with evolving marijuana laws.
Determine specific requirements for drug testing and medical marijuana in each state in which your company has employees.
Develop state-compliant workplace drug policies that are appropriate for your business.
Confirm your drug testing policies in writing, distribute to employees, and apply the policies uniformly.
Consider eliminating strict drug testing practices in favor of reasonable suspicion drug testing.
Determine if you will test applicants for marijuana use or not.
Contact legal counsel if any specific concerns or incidents arise within your workforce.
If your company follows these simple guidelines for managing employees in the wake of legalized marijuana, you will be in a good position to adapt while protecting your business as marijuana legalization continues to evolve in the coming years.
For questions on specific state laws, consult with an attorney.
Amy Lessa and Nicole Stenoish are attorneys in the San Diego office of Fisher Phillips. Amy and Nicole counsel and defend employers, including breweries in employment law matters. They can be reached at alessa@fisherphillips.com and nstenoish@fisherphillips.com
If there is one thing craft beer growers, all brewers and drinkers can agree on it is that beer is made up to 95% water. The link to hops growers is water is also an essential component needed to grow the hops and barley . Water allows the hops to be turned into a beer that is rich and aromatic which may be one of the reasons why in 2019, the craft beverage market just keeps on growing.
However, there has recently been changes in the environment and climate that is grabbing the attention of both the hops growers and brewer industries because some of those changes are creating higher prices for hops which means there is a reduction of hops availability overall and some brewers and growers are even going out of business because they cannot compete when prices skyrocket, if a growing season is decimated by the weather or if a technologically enhanced competitor enters their market and is able to do more sales with less overhead costs.
Today brewers and growers are moving forward together to find environmentally enhancing technologies and systems to help grow hops and brew them effectively and efficiently. Working together has taught them much and allowed them to start moving forward in ways they never even thought of previously. One of those forward movements includes utilizing public and private funding which is now available to find innovative ways to configure water irrigation for hops growing and waste water used by brewers to treat and process the hops.
HOP GROWERS AND BREWER WATER USAGE SIMILARITIES AND DIFFERENCES
In the past hop growers worked with the knowledge that since hops are deep-rooted plants and their feeder root system they had to be kept moist during very vital growth and development time frames. Therefore, access to dependable and plenteous water for irrigation purposes is one of the most important assets needed for healthy hops to grow.
Brewers on the other hand, understood that any wastewater they created after treating the hops was usually discharged to a municipal treatment center and most do not have any pre-treatment installed at their facility to treat the wastewater prior to the municipal discharge. What’s more a lot of them pay an extra surcharge based on the wastewater strength (BOD and TSS).
To find out if growers and brewers were trying to eliminate some of these ongoing issues by implementing innovative technologies which may help them create more plentiful hops and better tasting craft beverages, we found one of the main sources for hops information through the Hops Growers of America/US Hop Industry Plant Protection Committee’s Executive Director, Ann George.
The main query revolved around if there is new technology which uses the best water data or science tools for premium hop growing and Ms. George stated, “Yes, soil profile moisture monitoring ensures precise application of water as needed by the plant, based on soil condition, plant growth stage and weather.”
Something else Ms. George asserted is that there is a sense of pride in helping the environment by using drip irrigation systems in hops growing as “runoff is not an issue due to its use which benefits the plant and soil and ultimately the environment. What’s more leaked water loss on-farm is minimal”
Proper irrigation is always critical when growing hops and at this time, most seem to be utilizing the drip irrigation system. However, there are still some who are committed to using and keeping the overhead sprinkler system which is understandable as both do offer advantages to hops grower. However, for environmentally conducive systems and overall efficiency, drip irrigation is usually recommended because overhead irrigation can result in hops which have downy mildew and or powdery mildew ratios. This occurs more frequently with overhead sprinkler systems which leads to diminished hops growth, viability, taste and can even destroy an entire crop.
Brewers on the other hand, have other types of water issues which originates in their malting and lautering practices and procedures. To try to eliminate some of their waste water issues, some brewers have built onsite water treatment plants which pretreats the biological and organic matter. This enhances and improves the water they conduct to the municipal treatment plant lowering their overall costs. There are some craft brewers that are now enabling anaerobic digestion which removes up to 90 percent of pollutants in their water, which in turn lowers their overall waste water costs when transported to municipal treatment centers. Some breweries are even extracting useful substances from their waste water torrent and either use it or send it off to be used in fuel cells. One brewer funded by a $1 million dollar grant to improve nitrogen reduction in their community wastewater, used hops weak wort to remove nitrate-nitrogen from the wastewater and after successful testing and results are now paid for their brewing wastewater as it provides the community a sustainable and cost-effective wastewater solution.
Ultimately, brewers have to decide for themselves, how best to compete both with other brewers and how to present themselves to customers in a way that highlights their competitive assets and advantages over other brewers. In today’s market if you want to build your business, it is important to offer unique customer experiences and display business decisions that are based on fiscal and environmental responsibility. Since, growers and brewers understand that their competition will keep searching for a competitive edge, they need to be diligent in finding ways they can become matchless in their technology improvement programs.
HOPS GROWERS AND BREWERS ARE ALIGNED IN UTILIZING TECHNOLOGY FOR MARKETING
In 2016, the number of breweries grew to over 5,000 according to the Brewers Association. The industry keeps growing yet within the United States there is some ongoing seasonal periods which are affecting both hops growers and brewers which consist of the environmental factors-draught or water deluge depending on what area of the country you reside. To combat the unknown of the next season’s weather pattern, growers and brewers are learning how to do more with less water or are using more effective and efficient water technologies to help keep the hops crop plentiful thereby allowing for business profit. These new technologies even come with the added bonus of giving back to the environment.
For instance, Pure Water Brew is currently marketing craft beer made from reclaimed water in a pilot program which is designed to show proof of concept therefore the next step is to reproduce their success at a mass consumption level. However, consumers may not take to it easily even with the environmentally friendly brewing technology, but it is a step in the right direction. It also goes to show there are currently monetary competitions where brewers and growers can compete or apply to be awarded funding for trying new technologies that are innovative, adaptable and progressively based in water usage.
NEW WATER TECHNOLOGIES AND FUNDING FOR HOPS GROWERS AND BREWERS
Growers who wish to develop and apply new ways to utilize water technologies for hops growing and brewing can look to the U.S. Government. The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) announced nearly $89 million in available funding in 2019-2020 to support specialty crop growers which strengthen local and regional food and water systems and explore new market opportunities for farmers and ranchers.
Previously, one of the above grants offered through the above program, was for a grower who developed hops hydroponically. Hydroponics to develops hops utilizes a method that doesn’t use soil at all while concentrating the hops flavors. As an ultimate benefit it also saves water. The end result means hops can be grown anywhere, no matter the environment or weather. This assuages the hops shortages which happen year to year because of the unpredictability of weather and conditions.
To make sure that brewers were not left out of the funding equation additional resources have been created that provides new technological programs and assets that can be used to expand and enhance hops.
The Brewers Association (BA) recently awarded more than a half a million dollars in research grants to brewers of small and independent craft beer companies if they found a way to “further the development of a healthy and sustainable raw materials supply chain.” This resulted in some very progressive and competitive breweries who began to look past their old ways and means of utilizing water for hops brewing to find ways they can increase water conservation and lower their water footprint. One of the biggest advantages unexpectedly found in some of federal, state or privately awarded funding projects is that if hops wastewater is treated, it becomes an almost perfect medium for a brewer to use and create any taste or essence they want for their craft beverage creations.
Which goes to prove that some of the most flavorful beer can now be linked to new water technology which is environmentally accountable. That is a win for the land, water, growers, brewers and all craft beer consumers.
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Nelson-Jameson has been an integrated supplier for the dairy and food industry since 1947. Product lines include safety & personnel, production & material handling, sanitation & janitorial, processing & flow control, laboratory & QA/QC, and bulk packaging & ingredients. The company is headquartered in Marshfield, Wisconsin, with other locations in Turlock, California; Twin Falls, Idaho; York, Pennsylvania; Amarillo, Texas; and a sales branch in Chicago, Illinois.