
By: Becky Garrison
A growing number of Pacific Northwest wineries have added distilled spirits to their portfolio. Many of these distillers chose to make grappa and other spirits from their must instead of composting this product. However, a growing number of distillers are choosing to go the route of distilling whiskey.
Washington State Wineries & Distilleries
In Distilling in Washington (The History Press, 2024), I noted the history that led to the ability of Washington State wineries to also hold a distilling license:
“When Paul Beveridge of Wilridge Vineyard, Winery and Distillery of Seattle and Yakima began advocating in 1988 to change the liquor laws so that he could operate a winery and a distillery, a member of the board told him, ‘They’ll never be a distillery at a winery permitted in my lifetime. It will have to happen over my dead body.’
Beveridge and members of Family Wineries of Washington State began calling the board ‘The Department of No’ after it not only denied his request to operate a distillery but also refused to allow him to use refillable bottles or offer restaurant-type service, even though the latter two activities were not mentioned as prohibited by law.
The law pertaining to distilled spirits was amended in 2015 to permit wineries, breweries and cideries to hold a distilling license, with Beveridge’s becoming one of the first wineries in the state to also operate a legal commercial distillery. Initially, he had to set up his distillery in a separate space from his winery, though his businesses can now operate under one roof. Until recently, he could not sell his spirits at any tasting rooms where he was also selling his wines.”
According to the Washington State Liquor and Cannabis Control Board (LCB) regulations:
“A winery license (RCW 66.24.170) and a distillery license (RCW 66.24.140) can operate in the same building if physically separated from each other. There is currently no allowance for a winery and distillery to alternate production or share production space. What they can share is a jointly operated tasting room (RCW 66.24.1472). Also, wineries and distilleries can jointly operate an off-site tasting room, as detailed in RCW 66.24.1472 and WAC 314-28-310. They do need to maintain separate storage and financial records. They must also comply with the food offering requirements found in WAC 314-28-067, which include prepackaged items or items prepared off-site.”
Following Beveridge’s advocacy, a select number of Washington State wineries have followed suit.
Browne Family Spirits (Spokane, Washington)
Having founded Browne Family Vineyards in Walla Walla 20 years ago, it may surprise a few that founder Andrew Browne’s drink-of-choice is an Old Fashioned. He and the wider Browne Family team recognized the tastes of Browne Family Vineyards consumers reach beyond wine and felt joining the two industries brought the opportunity for discovery.
Getting into the spirits business had been on proprietor Andrew Browne’s mind when the opportunity to purchase a distillery came to fruition. He jumped at the chance, given its location in Spokane, Washington, where he was born and raised, and his strong bond with master distiller Aaron Kleinhelter. As Kleinhelter grew up in the shadow of the Jim Beam distiller, he bought insights from one of the world’s most established bourbon communities to Browne Family Spirits.
Browne was a fan of Kleinhelter’s unreleased small-batch recipes he had made under the previous distillery. This evolved into what would become the initial line of Browne Family Spirits. In both ventures, Browne aspires to create an environment that appeals to and caters to both without diluting the experience.
Mastrogiannis Distillery & Winery (Lakewood, Washington)
In 2016, Ilias Mastrogiannis launched a distillery and started a winery in 2019. In terms of production, he would describe his venture as a distillery-focused operation focusing on grapes. This project started with his early memories of growing up in Greece.
“My dad was a mason turned winemaker, so during harvest, the entire family would assist in crushing grapes. That upbringing, along with the fact that nobody at the time was making grape brandies to the quality I know existed, we decided to start our distillery with that singular focus,” Mastrogiannis recalls.
In terms of their wine portfolio, they have a Vermouth, which is a combination of their rose wine and their brandy, both of which are made under the same physical roof. In Mastrogiannis’ estimation, “Being able to cross two different products into one is something really special.”
Due to the short harvest period for grapes, he finds he is limited to production for that season. He notes, “For example, we cannot get grapes in March, so by default, you don’t see a lot of distilleries focusing on grape distillate because from an economic standpoint, it is very hard.”
Monson Ranch Distillers (Prosser, Washington)
Goose Ridge Estate Vineyards and Winery was established in 1998 when the Monson family planted 2,000 acres of estate vineyards. In 2023, the family officially launched Monson Ranch Distillers in Prosser, Washington. With over 80 years of family history in agriculture and farming, Monson Ranch Distillers is led by the third and fourth generations of Monson ranchers, together with Master Distiller Brian Morton to create uniquely crafted spirits. Morton has been working in the Washington spirits business for over 14 years. He opened one of the first distilleries in Washington state, Blue Flame Spirits.
Starting with cattle feed lots, the foundation of Monson Ranch was built in the 1930s, as the family started climbing its way up in the Washington agriculture community. Following years of hard work and success in ranching, farming and winemaking, Monson Ranch Distillers is the newest venture for the family. The distillery offers a full range of premium spirits. Vodka, gin, brandy, and whiskey are only the beginning. With vineyards, orchards and new rye and corn plantings at the family’s home ranch in Goose Gap, plus a state-of-the-art distillery in eastern Washington, Monson Ranch Distillers controls every step of the process for a complete farm-to-bottle experience.
The Monson Family wine brands and spirits brands are each distinct from one another. However, VIDO Vodka and Feather & Folly Gin are both made from alcohol distilled from wine grapes grown at the Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard. Both the Goose Ridge Estate Wines and the Monson Ranch Distillery spirits from wine grapes display distinct notes reflective of the unique terroir within the Goose Gap appellation. At the Goose Ridge Tasting Rooms in Richland and Woodinville, guests can taste the spirits in addition to Goose Ridge wines.
Westport Winery Garden Resort and Ocean’s Daughter Distillery (Aberdeen, Washington)
Kim Roberts decided to make spirits after she went scuba diving with her daughter on Maui and visited the two distilleries. Currently, they have over 30 different wines, plus 30 different spirits. According to Roberts, this gives their guests many choices every day and reasons to visit on multiple trips.
When asked to describe her operation, Roberts opines, “We’re a winery with spirits for those who just don’t dig wine.” She views them as outliers in the wine industry since they are so far from any other wineries.
Roberts finds the same dynamic present in the distillery. “We operate in our own remote bubble, with dedicated fans that share their enthusiasm for our products with their family and friends.”
Oregon Wineries & Distilleries
In Oregon, a winery and distillery can offer wine and spirits tastings in the same area as long as they fulfill two conditions: one, the licensee of record must hold both the winery and the distillery licenses, and two, they must follow the requirements for tasting rooms as outlined in OAR 845-005-0431 and OAR 845-006-0452.
Also, businesses do not have to serve food with tasting. However, if they want to sell and serve full drinks, they need to get a Special Event Distillery license. In addition, if the business not only has a distillery license but is a Distillery Retail Outlet with approval to sell bottles of distilled spirits, then they would need to have a different point of sale specifically for the distilled spirits.
Willamette Valley Vineyards (Turner, Oregon)
In December 2021, Founder and CEO, Jim Bernau decided to venture into distilling Willamette Whiskey as a tribute to the people of Carlton, Oregon. For 91 years these residents enjoyed the building first known as W.A. Howe’s General Merchandise Store, which was nicknamed “the Old Cabin Tavern” owing to an interior constructed of hand-hewn timber. This building served as a general store, a hotel, and Carolton’s first bank, with a parlor and speakeasy supper club in the basement. Built in 1904, it was destroyed in a fire on April 18, 1995, with Willamette Valley Vineyards now owning the lot where its building once stood.
Their limited release of Willamette whiskey heralds the beginning of their efforts to rebuild this property with a brick-clad micro-winery and distillery with food service. In this venture, they partnered with Portland-based Rose City Distillery to produce this handcrafted, small-batch rye whiskey that was aged in new American oak for six years, then blended down to a bottle strength of 100 proof.
They released 12 bottles in December 2021 and then 350 bottles in February 2022. They want to do this again someday, but nothing is planned.
Patricia Green Cellars (Newberg, Oregon)
Jim Anderson was promoted to venture into distilling because of all the ruined wine from the 2020 wildfires. In their process of distilling the wine to brandy, Dogwood Distilling in Forest Grove was up for sale. In 2022, Anderson, associate winemaker Matty Russell, their distiller Lynsee Sardell and two friends (primarily investors) purchased this distillery and re-named it Die The Wolf Distilling.
The winery holds a DSP, as all the whiskey is aged on the property. Anderson notes how this business arrangement is a bit difficult to describe since the winery does not directly own the distillery. Still, a partner in the winery is also a partner in the distillery. “While we have done some custom distilling for other wineries (largely to help folks out with smoke-tainted wine) the only real distillery customer is Patricia Green Cellars,” Anderson states.
For Anderson, the biggest disconnect in selling wine and distilled spirits is that while wineries can sell directly to consumers, spirit sales at restaurants and shops must go to the OLCC. Also, as a new distiller, they can only have three items listed at any one time.
Trisaetum Winery (Newberg, Oregon)
Founded in 2003 in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Trisaetum Winery fulfilled the Frey family’s dream to farm responsibly, foster a family and create beautiful wines. As James Frey developed an equal passion for spirits, he dreamed of opening a distillery. That dream was realized when his daughter Tatum developed a similar passion.
So, they founded Brixeur Spirits in 2020, which is located on the same property as their winery. Currently, James Frey makes the wine for Trisaetum while Tatum and her partner Jackson distill their spirits. On their website, they describe how they take a “winemaking approach to distillation and aging of spirits.”