By: Gerald Dlubala, Staff Writer
Sometimes, sitting around a bonfire enjoying a craft brew can be the best thinktank in the world. Such was the case for Joleen and Brian Durham, founders and owners of Piney River Brewing Company, an award-winning, family-owned brewery in the Missouri Ozarks. While enjoying a bottle of Ommegang’s Three Philosophers, an idea sparked that gave birth to Piney River Brewing Company, humbly nestled in the Missouri Ozarks. The Durhams began beef cattle farming in 1998. Thoughts turned introspective when they wanted to invest in themselves, their land and their property to bring additional value to their rural community.
From Craft Beer Lovers to Award-Winning Craft Beer Brewers
“We were homebrewers, and we loved and homebrewed craft beer,” said Joleen. “As far back as the early 2000s, whenever we would travel, we always looked for local beer options to sample and maybe have with a meal. Craft beer wasn’t as big then. There weren’t nearly the number of taprooms associated with craft brewing, but given the opportunity, we visited those as well, and I think doing that kind of sparked us to do it. We always believed that craft beer is about place, and at the time, we knew we lived in a unique place. The Ozarks are a place people recognize as a vacation destination full of nature, so we thought we should make a craft beer that carries the Ozarks as a theme and reflects those qualities.”
Piney River Brewing Company offers beers with names like Missouri Mule, Old Tom Porter, Black Walnut, Float Trip Ale, Bronzeback Pale Ale, Low Water Bridge and more. Their beers are brewed using limestone-filtered well water from a natural spring on their property. In 2010, a deeper well was dug on their property to tap into their natural water supply more efficiently.
“We make no changes to our natural water profile at all,” said Joleen. “We have a very large aquifer in the area. We have to test our water regularly, and the tests on the water profiles from our wells and the natural springs on our property yield the same results, so that’s pretty cool. We’re pulling water out of our limestone-filtered spring, which plays a key role in our brewing.”
“Our Black Walnut Beer is our most popular and has become synonymous with our brewery,” she said. “It’s an American-style, dark wheat beer made with the meat of locally sourced black walnuts. It was one of our earliest beers because we looked for an ingredient that the Ozarks is known for, and black walnut is that flavor of the Ozarks. It can remind you of your grandma’s cookies, a black walnut ice cream or just eating them while growing up. The Ozarks grow the most walnuts in the country; we’re proud of that. We don’t use the hull, only the black walnut nut meat in our brewing. The way we utilize them in our brewing process removes the natural tannins in the nuts and, instead, creates a subtle fruitiness. You get this very nice aroma of black walnut when you pour a glass, and then you get a black walnut finish, but it’s not sharp or abrasive in any way. Brian chose to use a wheat beer to highlight the flavor, and the dark wheat is a play on the black walnut name. It has a smooth, light drinkability with a lot of body and flavor that has turned out to be a gateway beer for those who thought or said they don’t like or wouldn’t drink dark beers.”
Joleen said their original plan was to make great craft beer for distribution that reminds people of good times spent in nature. As the majority of their beer is still canned for distribution purposes, the evolution of Piney River Brewing Company has resulted in a very vibrant, on-site brewery and taproom.
The 1940s-era barn was meticulously cleaned and decluttered to become the “BARn,” which opened in 2011 and was home to the first official brewery for Piney River Brewing Company. It featured a 10-gallon Sabco Brew Magic Brewhouse to brew the Durhams’ original homebrew recipes for public consumption. When demand quickly outpaced production, and Piney River got its first distributor, the Durhams purchased a used seven-barrel brewhouse and other equipment, including a two-head canning unit for 16-ounce cans.
Piney River Brewing Company became the first microbrewery in Missouri to can their beer on-site at the brewery. The accolades and demand continued, and by 2014, thoughts of expansion were again on the table. Ground was broken for a larger barn in December 2014, and with a $1.3 million investment in a new 15-barrel brewhouse and eight-head canning line, Piney River Brewing’s roots were firmly set.
The original “BARn” is a booming taproom that welcomes guests every weekend. The brewery regularly draws customers from up to a 90-mile radius. They also welcome those passing through the Ozark region, including people from all over the world who come to their farm to enjoy their property and craft beer. They continue to grow as a destination craft brewery by offering new beer releases and popular live music to also draw craft beer lovers like themselves to their brewery.
All in the Family: Accolades, Awards and Andy’s Root Beer
Brian and Joleen’s son Andy was in elementary school when the Durhams started putting in the long hours and effort to get Piney River Brewing up and running, whether brewing, canning or running the taproom on weekends. Joleen said that Andy was always nearby, reading a book or visiting with customers at their picnic tables. He wanted to be involved somehow, so his parents let him pick out the root beer syrup of his choice to keg, and they named it Andy’s Root Beer.
“It wasn’t long before he wanted to scale up,” said Joleen. “He noticed we were canning everything except his root beer. He was probably all of 12 years old at this time. We sent him to a kids’ business camp, and wouldn’t you know it, he won the junior division’s business pitch contest, pitching his root beer canning idea. Andy’s Root Beer has now taken on a life of its own. It has won a couple of awards through the U.S. Open Beer Championship, and it is also sold in the taproom. Some folks like to have a shot of Andy’s Root Beer with their pint of Old Tom Porter. We started canning his root beer after he won the awards, and now you can find it around the area in cans and on draught. Andy gets the proceeds after expenses, which helped him buy everything from band equipment to a car, and now provides him with money to spend while he’s in college.”
Speaking of awards, there are no shortages when it comes to Piney River Brewing Company and recognition. Just recently, Piney River Brewing Company’s Old Tom Porter took home the bronze medal during this year’s Great American Beer Festival competition, with 1869 entrants representing all 50 states plus Washington, D.C. and Puerto Rico. There are too many prior awards to mention individually, including gold, silver and bronze medals for nearly all of their brews over the years. Additionally, Piney River Brewing Company was named Best Microbrewery, People’s or Editor’s Choice four times over the last 10 years in the U.S. Open Beer Championships and has received accolades from the World Beer Cup, Great American Beer Festival, The Best of Craft Beer Awards and from Rural Missouri Magazine.
Enjoy Your Brewery Experience, and Stay a Bit If You’d Like
“Well, we are full-time beef cattle farmers, so you’ll pass through a couple of cattle guards along the two-mile gravel road on the way here,” said Joleen. “But then, you’ll see this brewery in the middle of nowhere. The taproom is open on the weekends, with live music. Handmade pizzas and pretzels are available, and outside food can also be brought in to enjoy while visiting.”
Piney River Brewing Company sits on the Durhams’ original 80-acre farm. When a nearby property became available, they took the opportunity to buy that and enhance the Piney River experience.
“Back in 2020, our area was hit with a devastating hailstorm right about the same time as COVID hit,” said Joleen. “Prior to that, in 2019, a farm on our same road came up for sale, and the family contacted us to see if we were interested. It contained an old, severely neglected house that got absolutely shredded from the baseball-sized hailstones, taking out windows and everything.”
“We ended up utilizing our staff, who weren’t doing anything due to COVID, to gut the house and turn it into an extension of the Piney River experience,” she said. “Now, it’s a little weekend getaway that we call our Bed and Brewery. It’s on the same road as the brewery, also in the middle of nowhere. The Bed and Brewery is a really cool extension of our brewery for those who like to come in on Friday and stay through Sunday. Along with a brewery tour, they get a place to stay with a huge front porch, fire pit and a fully stocked beer fridge to make it the ultimate escape. It’s all those things about enjoying nature, watching the stars and just getting away from it all without seeing any cars, light pollution or other people for the most part. It is a very unique and enjoyable property for those who want to extend their stay and visit surrounding areas for tourism.”
Challenging Times Call for Renewed Focus of Core Goals
“As others can tell you, it’s challenging times for many craft breweries,” said Joleen. “For us, that means that we must continue to focus on brewing the best craft beer here in the Ozarks and remain consistent with our distribution throughout Missouri and Arkansas. We want to be known for what we do and do well right here because the freshest beer is the beer brewed closest to home.”
“We continue to work with our distributors to ensure that what we put out there is the absolute best representation of what we do and of our location,” she said. “We want to continue providing an enjoyable and fun experience for guests of all ages, whether regulars or first-time visitors. Believe it or not, there are still people out there who have never had or been exposed to craft beer, so we want to be that gateway into the craft beer experience for those people. It seems weird to say in this day and age, but it’s really true that there are still areas of the country where craft beer isn’t the norm. We want to make craft beer a great experience for those people while providing a place that is welcome for everyone, including pets.”
Joleen continued, “We also want to provide an example of a thriving small business located on a farm in the Ozarks. Many believe those conditions to be considerable odds, but we’re proud to be a successful family farm business. The brewery is important to us, but it’s also something we do alongside raising beef cattle and being good stewards for our land.”
Piney River Brewing is located in Bucyrus, Missouri, in the Missouri Ozarks. Call or check out their website for more information, to plan a visit, or to book a stay at their Bed and Brewery.
Piney River Brewing Company
15194 Walnut Grove
Bucyrus, MO 65444
417-967-4001
